It is truly invigorating to seat around and look around your home after a fresh paint job.
If you are thinking about selling soon you can’t go wrong with an off white color it makes the home lighter and easier to show.
Preparing
for Interior Painting
Even
more important than the actual painting itself when it comes to interiors is
preparation. Most people just dive right in and hope they have everything they
need and know everything they need to know. But preparation can make the
difference between a neat, attractive and lasting job versus a complete mess.
These tasks can be completed over time – don’t try to get them all done in a
weekend. Use the weeks before the actual painting weekend to prepare.
The
home interior painter’s tools may take some time and investment to put
together, but the result will be worth it. Tools and materials needed to
prepare your walls include items that protect the painter as well as get the
job done:
old
clothes l head protection (cap or scarf) l rubber gloves l ear protection
surgical
mask (available at hardware stores) l safety glasses l fine-grit sandpaper l
paint scrapers l screwdrivers l putty knife l detergent and ammonia or
tri-sodium phosphate (TSP)l sponges l primer or adhesive pad
orbital
sander l wallpaper steamer l adhesive drywall tape l fan l hand sanding block l
spackle.
First,
remove everything from the walls – pictures, any sort of hangings, including
their nails, and move furniture out from the walls several feet, or even out of
the room if you can. Whatever’s left should be covered with a drop cloth. Turn
off the electricity so you can remove light fixtures, switch plates and outlet
plates, and wrap all disconnected light fixture wires. Once all wires are
safely wrapped, you can turn the electricity back on.
Now
it’s time to make any needed repairs to walls and ceilings. If you have large
holes or cracks that need fixing, it’s a good idea to get more extensive
instruction. There are many good wall repair manuals available at your hardware
store, so it’s a good idea to invest in one of those to ensure the best job
possible. Repairing little cracks is a little simpler.
For small hairline
cracks, spread spackle over them, let dry and sand smooth. If there’s any loose
or bubbled paint, scrape it off. Don’t forget to vacuum up any dust that
results.
Now
comes the hard part – thoroughly cleaning the walls and ceilings. Paint will
adhere much better to clean walls and there’s less chance of bubbling. And if
there’s any wallpaper glue residue left on the walls, the result is an
interesting pattern under your paint that you hadn’t planned on.
Walls should
all be washed with ammonia and detergent, or a cleanser like Spic and Span, or
tri-sodium phosphate, which is available at your hardware store. Be sure to
wear your rubber gloves when working with these solutions. After a meticulous
scrubbing, walls and ceilings should be rinsed thoroughly with water. Do this
twice if after drying you feel residue on your surfaces.
If
your walls have stains from water damage, permanent markers or other sources,
clean and scrub them as best you can, rinse and let dry completely. Then you’ll
want to seal the stains with shellac or other commercial spot primer from your
hardware store. Don’t ignore mildew either or it will come through your new
paint job. To get rid of it, mix bleach in with your TSP (or if you’re using
household cleanser, read the label to be sure that it’s safe to mix bleach
with).
If
you’re painting over a gloss or semi-gloss paint, you will need to “degloss” it
before painting or the new paint will peel off. You can do this by lightly
sanding the surface with fine-grit sandpaper or use a liquid deglosser, again
available at your hardware or paint store.
A word of caution, however – if you
use the liquid deglosser, you must paint over it within an hour, although it’s
faster and less messy than sanding. Finish this phase up with a painstaking
vacuum job.
Next
comes masking, using two- or three-inch masking tape. Mask off all woodwork
trim and cover the windows with newspaper and your masking tape. Be sure that
your tape edges are straight. You’ll need to mask the perimeter floor also.
Don’t bother masking around the ceiling, however, as you’ll do a process called
“cutting in” when you paint. Do not remove the tape for at least 24 hours after
painting to avoid pulling up part of your paint job with it.
To
prime or not to prime – that is the question. On never-before-painted surfaces,
it’s a must, but it’s even a good idea on already painted walls too. It
minimizes lap marks, helps with evenness of color and seals the surface,
which
adds up to a longer-lasting, better-looking paint job. Surfaces previously
painted with enamel or gloss don’t need to be primed.
Now
you’re ready to paint!
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