Check Your Credit Report Before Buying

Getting an annual Free Credit Report is important in this age when credit is important not only when buying a house but even when seeking employment,

There are businesses that exist solely to scrutinize your credit history. Credit card companies and other lenders rely on this information, so your credit score determines your chances to borrow money — and how favorable the terms will be.

A Crash Course in Credit Scoring

There are three major credit-reporting agencies: Equifax (www.equifax.com), Experian (www.experian.com), and TransUnion (www.tuc.com). The website of each details how to get a copy of your report via mail or Internet. Be sure to order one from all three.

Until recently, credit scores’ calculations (and how to improve them) were literally a secret. Fair, Isaac & Co. is the company that blazed the credit scoring trail 40 years ago, and — under pressure from consumer groups, Congress, and lending institutions — they recently decided to provide credit scores and guidance on their website (www.myfico.com).

Credit scores can range from 200 to above 800. Scores below 620 are considered risky, but 720 and above should afford you excellent rates and terms for any kind of credit.

There are five categories used in determining a credit score:

1. Payment history (35% of total score): Late payments and amount owed are the two areas scrutinized most closely. What you may not realize is that recent late payments are more detrimental than those from years before. According to Fair, Isaac, “A 30-day late payment from last month will count more than a 90-day late payment five years ago.”

2. Amount owed (30% of total score): Large outstanding balances on your accounts do not necessarily damage your score. The significant factor is the percentage of total available credit you’re using on your credit cards. A common mistake is to consolidate many small credit card balances onto one card. This will actually cause your score to go down because your credit line on the one card will be closer to your credit limit.

3. Length of credit history (15% of total score): If you’re just starting out, you know that you need credit to get credit. There’s no way to improve this part of your score other than to wait. Logically, it makes sense for parents to establish a credit card in their child’s name just to get the ball rolling.

4. New credit (10% of total score): Applying for too much new credit in a short period of time is the most common and costly mistake most consumers make. While it counts for only 10% of your score, your score still drops when too many companies request your credit report in a short time. Note that if you request your own credit report (a “consumer-initiated inquiry”), it doesn’t count against you.

5. Types of credit (10% of total score): This category considers the overall mix of the credit you carry — installment loans, mortgages, revolving credit accounts, etc. Unfortunately, this category remains shrouded in mystery. Fair, Isaac won’t disclose how the various types of accounts are weighted.

 

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Credit bureaus give your score to lenders along with “reason codes” which explain why your score is what it is. Examine these reason codes; they’re the keys to improving your credit score.

Deciphering the Credit Report Code

With your credit report in hand, give it a thorough review. Check these items for timeliness and accuracy:

Check that all items included in the credit report are factually correct. If there are incorrect entries, notify the credit bureau in writing. Include copies (never originals) of documents that dispute the incorrect entries. Send the whole packet by certified mail to provide proof that the credit bureau received the information. They have 30 days from receipt to adjust or verify the incorrect data.

Check that all items are yours. If you have a name or Social Security number like someone else, it’s possible that his or her information will be attributed to you. Remember that even if that person’s credit is better than yours, you still have an obligation to correct the information.

Look for inactive accounts that remain open. Close any accounts you don’t use.

Check for late payments. Those from more than seven years ago can be removed from your record at your request.

Look over the list of your accounts and verify the numbers.

Verify correct address information and Social Security number.

How to Improve Your Score

First, pay your bills on time. Reduce outstanding debt, especially high-interest credit cards. Build up your savings.

Don’t fall for schemes that help you create a new credit identity. It’s illegal, and purveyors of these schemes incorrectly tell you that they’re invisible to creditors.

Wait to Buy Big Ticket Items Until you Buy Your Home

If you plan on purchasing a home wait until you buy it before buying big ticket items on credit because this can negatively affect your credit big time.

There is no quick fix to improving your credit; stay the course and you will see improvement.

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Loan Debt-to-income Ratios Explained

Read this article it will let you know if your numbers or ratios are right for getting a loan the better your ratios look the easier you’ll qualify for a loan I work with a Great Mortgage Broker / Lender more information at the end of this article.

When you’re ready to buy a house, a lot of jargon is thrown around. One term you’ll hear a lot is debt-to-income ratios. If you’re not a math wizard, such lingo can sound intimidating, but it doesn’t need to. Debt-to-income ratios are simple to figure and use to your advantage, even giving you the opportunity to figure out how much house you can afford before you even set out to look.

The debt-to-income ratio is, simply, the way that mortgage lenders decide how much money you can comfortably afford to borrow. It is the percentage of your monthly gross income (before taxes) that is used to pay your monthly debts (not your monthly living expenses). Two calculations are involved, a front ratio and a back ratio, written in ratio form, i.e., 33/38.

The first number indicates the percentage of your monthly gross income used to pay housing costs, such as principal, interest, taxes, insurance, mortgage insurance and homeowners’ association dues. The second number indicates your monthly consumer debt, such as car payments, credit card debt, installment loans, etc. Other living expenses are not considered debt.

So, a debt-to-income ratio of 33/38 means that 33 percent of your monthly gross income is used to pay your monthly housing costs, and 5 percent of your monthly gross income is used to pay your consumer debt—so your housing costs plus your consumer debt equals 38 percent.

33/38 is a common guideline for debt-to-income ratios. Depending on your down payment and credit score, the guidelines can be looser or tighter, and guidelines also vary according to program. The FHA, for instance, requires no better than a 29/41 qualifying ratio, while the VA guidelines require no front ratio but a back ratio of 41.

What if you already have a house or don’t plan to buy a house for a good period? You still need to know and control your debt-to-income ratio, so you can avoid creeping indebtedness, or the gradual rising of debt. Impulse buying and routine use of credit cards for small, daily purchases can easily lead to unmanageable debt.

Debt-to-income ratio not only affects your ability to buy a home, but other purchases as well. Debt-to-income ratios are powerful indicators of creditworthiness and financial health. Know your ratio and keep it low. Your consumer-debt number should never go higher than 20 percent regardless. If you let it rise above 20 percent, you may:

Jeopardizes your ability to make major purchases—cars, homes, major appliances—when you need them.

Not get the lowest possible interest rates and best credit terms.

Have difficulty getting additional credit in emergencies.

If you keep a stranglehold on your spending habits and therefore your debt-to-income ratio, you can:

Make sound buying decisions, and refrain from frivolous credit purchases and loans.

See the clear benefits of making more-than-minimum credit card payments.

Avoid major credit problems.

Calculate your debt-to-income ratio before you begin looking for a house. Get your credit in order so you can get the best credit terms, the lowest interest rate and the most house possible.

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Broward Homes for Sale, debt to income ratio, Plantation, Davie, Cooper City, Tamarac, Sunrise, Weston, Fort Lauderdale, Pembroke Pines, Hollywood, Miramar.

Closing Costs When Selling or Buying a Home

As a rule of thumb you should set aside 5% – 10% for closing costs and other minor charges, if you are selling you can help pay some of the buyer closing costs if you are buying you may ask in your offer to purchase that the seller pay some or all of your closing costs specially if you are not asking for much of a discount from the asking purchase price.

Non-Recurring Closing Costs Associated with the Lender

l Appraisal fee: The property being appraised is collateral for your mortgage (you’re borrowing money against the value of the property you’re borrowing money to buy) so the lender will want to verify that the property’s value is comparable to similar property based on recent sales in your area. l Credit Report l Flood certification fee: The certification verifies whether your property is in a federally designated flood zone. l Flood monitoring: Monitors remapping of flood zones. l Lender’s Inspection fee: for newly constructed property to verify that construction is complete with carpeting and flooring installed. l Loan discount: AKA points, each point equal to 1 percent of the loan amount. l Loan origination fee l Mortgage broker fee l Tax service fee: For monitoring your payment of property tax.

Other Lender Fees

l Administration fee l Appraisal review fee: Usually done on higher-valued properties. l Document preparation l Underwriting fee l Warehousing fee: The cost of a “warehouse” line of credit. l Wire transfer fee: This is the cost to transfer funds from one account to another.

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Items required to be paid in advance

l Homeowner’s insurance: You are usually required to pay the entire first year’s insurance at closing. l Mortgage insurance: Some first-time homebuyer programs still require the first year’s mortgage insurance to be paid in advance. l Pre-paid interest: The interest that accumulates between closing day and the first payment due date. l Up front mortgage insurance premium l VA funding fee: This is paid to the Veterans Administration for guaranteeing your loan.

Reserves Deposited with Lender

l Homeowners insurance impounds: You will need to deposit two months’ worth of premiums into the impound account to start it up. l Mortgage insurance impounds: Usually two months’ worth of premiums. l Property tax impounds

Non-recurring closing costs

l Closing/escrow/settlement fee l

Courier fee: This is the charge for sending documents back and forth between lender and borrower. l Home inspection: This is an optional, but recommended, cost. l Home warranty l

Homeowner’s association transfer fee l Loan tie-in fee: Usually charged by the closing agent, this is for services they provide in dealing with the lender.

l Notary fees l Pest inspection l Recording fees: To record documents with county recorder. l Sub-escrow fee: The title insurance company charges this for dealing with the closing agent.

l Title insurance: You pay this to make sure you have clear title to the property.

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Broward Homes for Sale PQ letter or Prequalification letter Plantation, Davie, Cooper City, Tamarac, Sunrise, Weston, Fort Lauderdale, Pembroke Pines, Hollywood, Miramar.

Difference Between Prequalification Preapproval

It is important to at the very least get a PQ letter or "Pre-qualification Letter" so that when you submit an offer to purchase a home the seller will seriously consider it I have partnered with an excellent Mortgage Broker / Lender he is in my website my contact information is at the end of this article.

Amy and Brad immediately fell in love with the two-story with a brick patio and big backyard. They quickly made an offer and began looking for lenders. Unfortunately, they soon discovered that they couldn’t qualify for the home. They tried to find something else in their price range, but other houses paled in comparison. If only they had shopped for loans before looking at houses…

One surefire way to reduce stress during the process of home buying is to seek pre-approval, applying for a loan before finding a house. The loan agent assembles a credit package that includes a loan application, credit report, income and asset information, and supporting documentation. These documents are then submitted to prospective lenders who underwrite the file, issuing credit approval or denial.

Buyers who are pre-approved are taken more seriously than their pre-qualified counterparts. Pre-qualification is not a loan commitment from a lending institution; it is only a loan agent’s opinion that you will be able to obtain financing. Verifications are not usually made so formal approval is not issued. These days, virtually anyone can achieve pre-qual status.

Pre-approval, on the other hand, signifies that the lender has taken the application through a rigorous procedure. So, buyers with pre-approval status can basically write their own ticket.

Benefits of pre-approval:

1. If you make an offer on a home and then apply for a loan, you are at the lender’s mercy. He sets the interest rate and points, aware that you do not have time to shop around.

2. Understanding the breadth of your financial reach will save the time spent looking at houses you can’t afford.

3. Shopping for a loan allows you to settle on a house payment that fits your lifestyle. If you rely on your lender to tell you what you can afford, you may end up with a high mortgage payment. Most people can qualify for more than they would feel comfortable paying.

4. Having a pre-approval letter from a lender gives you an edge in a situation where multiple offers have been made on a house.


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5. Pre-approved buyers can generally close escrow more quickly. Once you submit your credit package, most of the legwork has already been done.

Remember, neither pre-approval nor pre-qualification are absolute loan commitments. Lenders must still assess property appraisals, verify information, and, in many cases, verify credit before funding the loan.

Extremely Important:

Usually the lender wants some additional information from you, they refer to this as satisfying contingencies, make sue you respond to these inquiries right away, you want the Mortgage completely processed a few days before the expiration of the Mortgage Contingency usually 30 to 35 from Accepted Offer and before the Closing Date.

We have a an Excellent Mortgage Broker / Lender on my team for fast Mortgage Qualification, if you don't have one yet.

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Text or Call 954-648-6095

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